It’s been some time since my last post – apologies for that, I am still alive and kicking! Life has been going on as usual and I have been busy at work. I have managed to find time for a bit more diving though, so I think it is time I reported on some of the sites to be dived around Honiara. Mostly that is where I have been diving, though I squeezed in a short trip to Komodo (Indonesia) and one to the Russells with Bilikiki in the past month as well. Maybe I need to do a few diving posts 🙂 Apologies also for the lack of underwater photos – I plan to update this post with photos as I take more.
So, to the topic at hand – diving in and around Honiara (aka “H-town”). The diving, almost without exception, is wreck diving. There are a LOT of wrecks in the waters off Guadalcanal, thanks to a little WWII skirmish known as the Battle of Guadalcanal. In a nutshell, the Allied Forces launched a surprise attack on Japanese forces occupying the Solomon Islands and within six months or so it all went to custard for the Empire of Japan. This was a pivotal strategic victory that led to Japan’s surrender and the end of WWII. History buffs can read more about the campaign here and here.
Early morning dives are the best! This is at Bonegi I (B1)
The wrecks themselves? Well I have only done a handful of the many, many wrecks in Ironbottom Sound (why do you think it’s called that?). You can get an idea of the numbers by looking at this map (though it is not entirely accurate). For context, below is a map of the Solomon Islands.
It is a tech diver’s (and, let’s face it – bloke’s) paradise here, with many of the wrecks sitting in more than 50m of water, some intact and able to be penetrated, and some still with cargo (e.g. motorcycles, tanks, jeeps) on board. The key accessible ones close to Honiara are the ones I have included here. For anyone looking for more historical detail on the commonly-dived wrecks, this is a great resource.
Bonegi I/B1 Hirokawu Maru
A Japanese transport ship that was attacked by American dive-bombers and sank in November 1942
(depth 3–57m, location 12.5km west of Honiara, measured from the yacht club)
The beach at B1
This is the most-dived wreck near Honiara, probably because openwater divers as well as experienced and tech divers can all discover its charms. I’ve been shallow and deep on this wreck, and have done some limited penetration at around 46m toward the stern. I’m no authority on wrecks and don’t know all the cool terminology to use, but it was interesting to go inside. There were some big grouper and sweetlips hanging out in there, and soft corals and sponges growing on the inside, but I still prefer diving the top 15m because of the fish and coral life on that part of the wreck.
There are many lionfish to be found on B1 (Courtesy R. Duckworth)
You can always find nudibranchs, many species of anemone fish on and around the wreck in shallower waters (I once counted 14 different species), and there are often big schools of snappers, drummers, fusiliers and trevally hanging out around the masts. I’ve also seen octopus, crown-of-thorns starfish, crayfish and juvenile lionfishes.
Look carefully and you can find all kinds of cool stuff, like this nudibranch, on B1 (Courtesy R. Duckworth)
Bonegi II/B2 Kinugawa Maru
A Japanese transport ship that sank with Bonegi I
(depth 0–28m, location 12km west of Honiara right next to B1)
B2 from the Bonegi beach – it is the only one to break the surface (Courtesy R. Duckworth)
I have dived this very little because of consistently bad visibility. It has suffered over the years from earthquakes and other various things that have caused parts of it to collapse. It is now leaking oil as well, so I fear it won’t last much longer in its current condition. But, when you can see enough to dive it, it is worth doing.
The wreck at B2, shortly after the April floods (Courtesy R. Duckworth)
Orange anemone fish at B2 (Courtesy R. Duckworth)
The wreck is resting on sand and starts very shallow water (as you can see from the above photo, the top of it is actually out of the water) and goes down to around 28m. There are a few swim-throughs in the shallow parts and heaps of soft and hard coral growth all over the hull.
Bonegi III/B3 Kyusyu Maru, Azumasan Maru and Sasako Maru
A trio of Japanese cargo ships, locally known as Ruaniu, beached and bombed side by side in October 1942
(depth 7–47m, 39–80m and 58–85m respectively; location 17km west of Honiara)
The Beach at Bonegi III (B3)
The vessels have settled just off the beach, in close proximity to each other. I have dived the shallower two of these wrecks, which are frequently plagued by poor visibility (including because of lots of plankton). However, both can be penetrated and both have very nice underwater life. Because of the plankton there are a lot of feeding fishes, feather stars and soft corals.
Diving the shallower of the three transport ships at B3, Ruaniu (Courtesy R. Duckworth)
There are some beautiful fan corals on B3 (Courtesy R. Duckworth)
B-17 Flying Fortress
Lying on a sandy bottom close to shore, this American B17E Bomber was shot down in September 1942
(depth 14–17m, location 24.5km west of Honiara)
The gun turret of the B-17, encrusted with growth but still easily recognisable
The wreck is generally intact, with only its tail missing (thanks to a botched salvage operation) and a broken wing. Until recently you could even sit in the cockpit, though apparently someone did so a little too vigorously and broke it. It’s still a very cool wreck to dive though; it’s a super easy shallow muck dive, you can see the whole plane at all times, and there are heaps of little critters all over the place. It’s actually my favourite of all the local dives I’ve done here – I’ve seen sweetlips and snappers, nudibranchs, pipefishes, clouds of glassfishes here, and stingrays in the sand.
Five-lined snapper school around the turret and gun barrel
One of the B-17’s engines, with propeller
The B-17’s cockpit, still mostly intact
It seems obvious to say, but these wrecks are changing all the time in response to their environment. Just in the past 6 months the B-17 has been further covered in silt. For an idea of how it used to look, see this blog with photos taken in 1992.
A J1 type Japanese submarine, beached and sunk in January 1943 west of Visale Beach
(depth 3–28m, location 40km west of Honiara at Veura)
The sub is out there!
She lies at a 90-degree angle to the reef with her stern on the sand at 28m and is a good 20-minute swim from the beach, so save your air and take your snorkel if you intend to dive her. This wreck has an interesting history, which explains why there are big hunks of metal all over the reef adjacent to the wreck.
The “front” of the submarine
Apparently some fool of an Australian tried to blow her up 40 years ago to get access to valuable metals, not realising there were still live torpedoes inside. The resulting carnage is what you see today, and it also fired a table-sized piece of shrapnel into the local village. That being said, it is a very nice dive. The remainder of the sub is recognisable and you can penetrate a good part of it. There are several large air tanks (not torpedoes!) inside and a lot of life in, on and around it. The nearby reef is really nice and healthy. Last time I dived it we had loads of fish schooling around, and I saw several tiger cowries and anemone fishes. I’ve also seen bumphead parrot fish here and large snappers and sweetlips hiding in and under the wreck. Others have seen manta rays here and there are a lot of nudibranchs in the nearby reef, so try not to rush back once you’ve dived the wreck.
The submarine hull – the front part has been blown apart but the back is mostly intact
Most of the submarine can be penetrated
No, they’re not torpedoes, just air tanks! (I-1 Submarine)
I also found some crazy clown fishes on my way back from the sub…
After all this diving, you’ll probably be ravenous. Luckily you can grab some KFC on your way back to Honiara (that would be “Kakambona Fried Chicken”). They also do fish and local freshwater prawns, served with cassava and rice on a banana leaf-lined palm leaf plate. Mmmmmm.
The delicious Kakambona Fried Chicken (KFC)
Getting into the KFC post-dive at Kakambona Beach
The view isn’t bad either, just don’t look too closely at the dogs.
And that’s all from me for now folks… stay tuned for more diving adventures – next stop, Komodo!
The village at Veura is well organised for diving and the locals are friendly
The beach at Veura, looking toward Savo Island
Veura locals gleaning the local reef
The ribs of the I-1 submarine
Batfish and other large fishes are often found sheltering under the wreck (I-1 submarine)
Penetration! (The back part of the I-1 submarine)
A school of fusiliers whizzing past the submarine
The top of the submarine supports a tropical garden
There are loads of nudibranchs on the reef adjacent to the submarine, as well as on the wreck itself